The summer in Budapest
Summer begins with empty offices and full terraces.
If we could turn Budapest inside out, like a glove even water rich cities like Stockholm and Venice would concede defeat at the sight of the Hungarian capital's rich, underground mineral water reserves. This is probably the reason why residents of the city, at the briefest hint of good weather, head off to the countless number of swimming pools, spas and open-air baths that dot the city to sunbathe and cool-off with the help of one or two (or ten) cold beers, and a lángos (a delicious savoury pastry full of garlic and other delights). Of course, you don't need to go to the swimming pool to recognise what season it is ??? outdoor cafés and pretty terraces become jam-packed with visitors, meaning one thing: summer has begun.
A Water Paradise
There are many outdoor swimming facilities throughout the city, all coming in a variety of shapes and sizes, and fitted-out for a number of different purposes. The Gellért Hotel boasts a wave pool; the Palatinus and the Dagály baths are surrounded by large grassy areas for sunbathing where young people can check each other out and do some serious flirting. One rule of thumb to observe at these pools though, is to take good care of your valuables ??? they do go missing! The famous Lukács bathhouse possesses a few fun pools with flumes and slides, and some ice-cold ones too. Of course, being the Lukács, it offers a selection of thermal pools, saunas and steam rooms ??? perfect for the summer masochist. The more sporty among us might prefer the swimming pools at Komjadi, on the banks of the Danube, or on Margit Island, which, incidentally, hosts the European Swimming Championships later in July.
Restaurants
Most restaurants in the city see summer as an ideal opportunity to put their tables and chairs outside. Most of these outdoor wining and dining areas can be found on Ráday Street, on the Duna Korzó (promenade) and at Liszt Ferenc Square, and possess a real Mediterranean feel. However, there are a few pretty little Hungarian restaurants ??? vendégl?k ??? and some unforgettable Viennese Heurige (inns) over the river on the more-refined Buda side, which shouldn't be missed either.
Cafés and Beer Gardens
Visitors to Budapest who'd like to supplement their water intake, should make a point of sitting in the shade under one of the large umbrellas that adorn the tables of outdoor cafés and beer gardens. There are dozens of places to choose from at Liszt Ferenc Square and on Ráday Street. At Mikszáth Kálmán and Kálvin Tér visitors can find a whole assortment of places to sit down and quench their thirst in one of the many atmospheric cafés that line the pavement every 10 metres or so. Each offers great quality and service, and some provide excellent panoramic views of the city.
Party under the stars
Over the last several years Budapest has seen a growing number of outdoor venues for concerting, partying and clubbing. When the weather's good (which in summer it usually is) people can party and drink cocktails ‘til morning. These places offer great opportunities to get to know the locals. Most of them can be found near the Pet?fi Bridge on the Buda side, but you can also find a few great places on Margít Island, in the city centre and in some of the large parks found throughout the city.
District 7
Lots of the more sophisticated and arty type Hungarians can be found in the old Jewish quarter of the city (in District 7) frequenting rather shoddy-looking gardens ??? abandoned plots of land. These places might not be the most elegant in style, but you can still find them great places to have a drink in, a quite smoke, or even a game of table football. You might also find an artist's work on open display, a theatrical performance, or perhaps even the odd concert or two. Such gardens represent the more independent and alternative side of Budapest, so if you're craving after a different perspective of the city, these are the places to be.
Natural Shade
Budapest, like every other big city in summer experiences a reduction in locals as they fly off to more exotic locations like Croatia and Greece, or take trips to the Balaton region, or make visits to their tiny summer residences. This emigration eases congestion on public transport lines and roads, and reduces smog. The stone masonry on houses and the asphalt pavements together might soak in and generate more heat, but visitors to the city can escape these effects by taking cover under one of the many large trees that can be found in the Városliget ??? City Park ??? or that line the walkways of trendy Andrássy Street. People desirous for great views over the Danube and the city can find a nice relaxing spot on the grass just outside the Gresham Hotel next to the Pest side of the famous Chain Bridge. If visitors want to find another great place to relax in and cool down under the shade of some impressive trees, and take in the entertainment of some local wildlife, they can try Margít Island, which has a small zoo. Not to be outdone by Pest, the Buda promenade, which runs along the river up towards the Castle, provides some excellent natural cover for getting out of the sunlight and into the shade. Tabán and Vérmez? also provide excellent spots for having a good siesta. For those that want to escape the city altogether but not travel too far, they can take the number 21 bus from Moszkva Square and go up into the Buda Hills. And if tourists take the trouble to head into the hills, they should definitely make a point of visiting the lookout tower at the top of János Hill. However, wherever you are, do take good care of your possessions!
How do the locals cope?
For the most part, the locals try to stay out of the heat. However, you will come across them on public transport and, unfortunately, come to recognise that some of them haven't discovered the term deodorant yet. Hungarians love to eat ice-cream during the long summer months, and one of the great things about this is that you won't have to wait very long in a queue to get served. The water melon and melon and peach are big favourites too, even if none of them can be eaten in an elegant way. Locals also love barbecues and if you have any Hungarian friends, chances are, you'll get an invite to one of their homes. During some of these parties, they like to cook goulash in large cauldrons (the only true way to make it), fish soup, various stews and lecsó ??? which is a dish made of stewed peppers and tomatoes mixed with fried eggs. The grub is heavy and pretty much a cholesterol nightmare, but it's really good! Don't worry if your stomach is feeling a bit over-burdened, ‘cause a good glass of some home-made palinka ??? brandy ??? should have it right and ready in no time.
The Hungarians also love to visit outdoor swimming pools (strand), where the girls don't wear much: not there and not on the street.
Local advice on what tourists should do on a roasting hot day in Budapest
If you get up nice and early, then going for a nice walk isn't out of the question since the temperature is tolerable until 10am. Afterwards, if the sun is blazing on all cylinders, then a trip to the nearest swimming pool or spa is in order, or you could always take the opportunity to visit one of the many museums in the city. Lunch, of course, should be taken at a romantic restaurant, preferably outside on a terrace. Then a stroll in the park is called for, or even a siesta followed by a trip on the River Danube before relaxing in a nice café and sampling some local dessert. On warm July nights, the city's most exceptional views can be seen from the Buda Castle, whilst walking along the riverside, or while taking a stroll down Andrássy Street or even a wander through the many cafés that surround Liszt Ferenc Square. You could dine on Ráday Street or in one of the pretty little restaurants in the old part of Buda, and maybeafterwards take in an open-air concert. If you still have the stamina, you could hang out at an open-air venue like the one at Pet?fi Bridge on the Buda side, and party into through the night. After this, a trip to a thermal spa should help cure any hangover effects from the night before - the best and most historic of these, the Rudas, is the closest at hand.